Time To Replace Shingles?
The shingles on your roof are an essential component of your dwelling. However, the majority of us do not consider them until something goes wrong. Composition shingles are made with a blend of substances, including a center of felt or fiberglass matting impregnated with asphalt and covered with mineral particles. These kinds of shingles are designed to last 15 to 25 years (sometimes 30 years), and they have to be replaced. Ordinarily, a new layer of composition shingles can be applied within the present layer - thus saving you the time of removing the old roof.
Before you Choose to install new shingles over your existing shingles, you should take into consideration the following:
- How steep or complex is your roof? Shingling a simple gable roof onto a one-story home is pretty straightforward. But if the roof is steep, has multiple airplanes, needs valley work and complex flashings, think about the job carefully before making a commitment to start.
- Is your roof sheathing in good shape? Check out the loft and look for voids, separating plywood, and broken boards. You might also need to inspect the rafters. Check for rot by bending with a screwdriver. All rotten or damaged boards under the old roof has to be replaced. If this is true, hire an expert to do this job.
- How many layers of shingles already exist? Most building codes permit a maximum of 3 layers of asphalt shingles (the first layer and two reproofing layers). Check the amount of layers onto your roof by analyzing the rake (sloped) edge of the roof.
What is the state of the old (present ) shingles? Bumps or dips from the old layer of shingles can't be concealed by new roofing. If the old surface isn't properly flat, it should then be eliminated.
As you are getting ready to reroof your home, you need to Check out the following:
- Eaves and rakes. Search for rot along the borders. Make sure that the fascia boards are solid and solidly linked to the rafter tails.
- Valleys. It's always advisable to check the status of the metal valley flashing.
- Flashing. Have a look at the flashing around chimneys, vent stacks, and skylights.
One of the toughest jobs is getting the new shingles on the roof. For an additional fee, many providers can"load" the roof to you, using a crane or conveyor belt. Otherwise, you'll have to carry the shingles with you a ladder up. Entire bundles typically weigh about 75 pounds. Needless to say, it is possible to open the packages and carry smaller loads.
Whilst up on the roof, be certain you form a flat base for stacking the shingles. After all, the last thing you need is to need to retrieve shingles slipping off your roof back to the floor. A great plan is to specify a bundle on both sides of the ridge. This permits you to establish an open work area.
Cutting Curves in Wood
A lot of the finish carpentry in a house comprises curves - pretty catchy work for the shuttle carpenter. Some of those curved cuts are for requirement. By way of instance, holes through walls, walls, flooring, and roof (for pipes or ducts). Others, however, are somewhat more decorative - an archway, or a curve of a circular window.
Regardless of the curve's purpose, it requires tools and techniques different from those used for straight cuts. For many curves the best instrument is an electric saber saw, ideally one with variable-speed control. Blades 1/4 inch wide with 8 to 10 points per inch are appropriate for many jobs, but other blades are available for specific applications: a hollow-ground blade, as an instance, will make splinter-free cuts in plywood; a blade with 12 or 14 points per inch is a good idea for scrollwork.
When power isn't accessible, or when work space is too cramped for a saber saw, you can turn to any of many handsaws designed especially for cutting curves. A coping saw has a delicate blade and a restricted cutting range; it's best suited to complete joints in woodwork and to nice, intricate scrollwork. The keyhole saw can handle heavier jobs, while the compass saw functions for still more demanding work. Both come with a variety of blades designed for different substances. The blades are tapered, with narrow tips for turns and for cutouts began from small drilled holesand because the blades can be reversed, compass and keyhole saws are best for use in tasks with tight clearances and awkward undercuts.
Because you must guide the above saws by freehand, it's extremely important to indicate a guide-line before cutting any curve. More often than not, you can just hold a thing to be reproduced - a section of decorative trim, such as - set up and trace its outline. However, some situations require more complex calculations and marking techniques. As an example, to indicate an elliptical hole for a round pipe passing through the roof, you need to plot the pitch of the roof and the size of the pipe on cardboard, then cut out the cardboard, then cut out the cardboard as a template to move the ellipse into the roof.
In other situations you must resort to scribing - a signaling technique for fitting material to an existing curve. Usually, it consists of setting the wood - the floor boards at a semicircular alcove, for example - contrary to the curve and running a simple school compass round the curve to replicate, or scribe, the arc on the boards.
Once you cut a curve, be particularly cautious of the pressure you apply; under excessive pressure, a handsaw blade will buckle and a saber-saw blade may shoot from the snap or cut in two. Mark the guidelines for a saber saw on the bare side of the board if at all possible, since the upstroke cut of the blade splinters the timber; if you have to work on the other hand, cover the guidelines using transparent tape to minimize the damage.